As I
mark the one week anniversary of my arrival in England, I shall share some of
my opening impressions of the country, and the city that I now find myself a
part of.
1) Brits neither like, nor are
capable of dealing with, snow.
Starting
soon after landing at Heathrow, and travelling into London the people’s
aversion to snow was obvious. We saw the lame attempt at snow removal, which
consisted of salting the hell out of the sidewalks without really moving any
snow. The result was a salty, slushy mess, that – when frozen overnight -
created a much more hazardous surface the next morning. This led to more salt,
and the cycle of futility continued. It was also clear that the fashions of the
day in urban London do not exactly mesh with winter precipitation. Stiletto
heels, and dress shoes do not offer much in the way of traction on slushy
sidewalks, and though my hiking boots may be considered visually assaulting by
the Ralph Laurens of the world, I consider it far more stylish to walk with my
head held high than walk like a baby giraffe who is desperately trying to look
composed.
Listening to the weather coverage on the TV is another joy. There was
footage of people who had abandoned their cars (which were buried in close to 6
inches of snow) and walked to the nearest town to stay the night. Others had
written “welcome to hell” in the snow that had accumulated on their town sign.
Even today, the Oxford vs. Oxford Brookes soccer game was cancelled due to the
forecast of inclement weather (which so far has been nowhere to be found). It’s
a good thing the children have the good sense to enjoy all this glory instead
of revel in misery like their parents. The hills around campus have been beehives
of activity. And I couldn’t be happier, it’s been quite comforting to have at least
a token part of Canada with me.
Best of all though, is not only has a few meager centimetres of snow rendered
one of the world’s largest airports completely inert, but now the focus turns
to the impending “floods” that will apparently bring the country to the brink
of collapse when all this dastardly snow has the nerve to melt. Needless to
say, the weather here has been Biblical for the Brits, and rather laughable for
me. Which brings me to my next observation ...
2) The English (as advertised)
have a great affinity for talking about the weather.
It
seems I have arrived at the perfect time to meet people. At our welcome meeting
earlier in the week, one of the heads of the International Student Society told
us that all we had to do to strike up a conversation with a local, was to ask
their opinion of the snow. Being from Canada I have the perfect icebreaker
(pardon the pun) for social situations. I simply say – quite matter-of-factly –
that I am used to cold temperatures and snow, and, as long as I’m talking to a
person from a milder climate, the reaction is a combination of wonderment,
respect and pity.
In
Bill Bryson’s book “Notes From a Small Island” (which is hilarious) he says
that talking about the weather is a sort of British sport, and something they
take great pride in. I know my time here has been brief, but this observation
has proved incredibly true.
3) Oxford (as advertised) is one
of the most beautiful cities I have ever visited.
I
think that judging by my other posts, you could have made this summation
yourself, but I thought it was appropriate to reiterate just how amazing this
city is. Yesterday I went on a lovely little wander in the city core, getting
myself delightfully lost, and discovering all sorts of little nooks and
crannies, as well as some of the notable landmarks. I found the iconic Bridge
of Sighs, the Bodleian Library, the Radcliffe Camera, and the Oxford Castle all
completely by accident. I also found my favourite street in Oxford: Cornmarket
St. It’s my favourite partly because of its name, partly because of its
buildings, partly because it’s a pedestrian-only street and there is no
possibility of looking the wrong way before crossing, and partly because of the
great eavesdropping opportunities it affords. I wandered from late afternoon
until the sun had set and the snow had begun to fall, veiling the lights of the
city in a wonderfully wintry glow. If you have the chance to get yourself lost
in a new city, I highly recommend it. You really do unearth all the hidden
gems, and you can always find your way back again. Speaking of hidden gems,
although it’s not really so hidden on the aptly named Broad St., the best
discovery of my walk was Blackwell’s Bookshop.
4) Blackwell’s Bookshop is
spectacular.
Although
the company has now expanded to more than 40 stores around the UK, the
Blackwell’s in Oxford is the original. It looks, feels, and smells like a book
store should. I couldn’t find an empty wall in the place, and the Norrington
Room in the basement is especially massive, with over 3 miles of shelving. Best
of all, the pretentious and invasive aroma of Starbucks coffee is pleasantly
absent, leaving nothing to dilute the smell of old paper. It feels like an
independent store, and has a charm and personality that cannot be replicated by
other corporate chains like Chapters and Indigo. I think that is partly aided
by its setting in one of the world’s premier academic and historical cities,
but nonetheless, Blackwell’s is a place where I can see myself spending many cozy
afternoons.
Finally,
for those of you who think that I am just having a merry old jaunt around
Oxford without a care in the world: you are mostly correct, but I did have a
class today. “Gaia: The Earth as a Living System” seems quite promising, and
the professor seems to possess a disproportionate amount of intelligence which
means I am bound to learn something. So as of now I am back in the realm of
being a student, that bothersome little matter that is a condition of going on
exchange. However I am looking forward to all the courses I have signed up for,
especially those that promise field trips. Sightseeing as part of mandated
course work, what a capital idea!
Your description of Blackwell's in Oxford begs the question. What shouldn't a Book shop smell like? I mean there are the obvious things like fish or fire but I am still curious.
ReplyDeleteI know exactly what that smell is like!! Remember the book shop in "Notting Hill"? I bet it smelled like that, too! Hey, you should go and check!! xoxoxo : - )
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