So I
have been regrettably slow at keeping up the accounts of my travels, so I will
attempt to catch up this week now that most of the bothersome school work is
over (which is quite startling). First, I will recount my wonderful trip to the
Netherlands from the 20th to 23rd of April.
After
months of talk, the group of Guelph BLAs on exchange finally managed to
coordinate a reunion in Holland. Six of us exchangers met in Amsterdam on April
20th for four days of Dutch fun. The timing of flights was rather
unfortunate since I wanted to arrive in Amsterdam early in the morning to get
the most out of the day on Saturday and as a result, I found myself in transit
through the night. I caught the bus at 1AM from Oxford and was at Luton Airport
by 2:50. Luton is a tiny little speck of an airport, maybe a little bigger than
the Toronto Island airport, but nonetheless it was well furnished with stores
and restaurants for the weary night travellers to sleep in. It really is an
interesting spectacle to walk into an airport in the middle of the night and
see a bunch of well-dressed hobos with luggage curled up in closed restaurants,
sprawled over the floor, or even cramped in the luggage ramps of the check-in
desks. I am in awe of these people, not just for their ability to colonize and
nest in the most undignified and uncomfortable of places, but also because they
could actually sleep. I found an armchair at Starbucks which was comfortable
enough but sleep eluded me, partly I think because of the automated voice on the
PA system shrilly chirping directions about how to proceed through security. I
am now well-versed in airport security protocol, but this newfound knowledge
came at the expense of my sleep cycle.
No
matter though, I was in Amsterdam early, and although I hadn’t slept a wink, I
was surprisingly energetic and excited to see everyone after half a year apart.
By lunch that day we had all safely landed and found ourselves together
wandering the famous canals under clear blue skies. Amsterdam is spectacularly
beautiful, at each corner was another glinting canal edged with charismatic –
if a little crooked – houses with finely crafted gables adorning the roof line.
Perhaps my favourite quality of Amsterdam was the vitality of the street life.
Maybe it was just the typical Saturday crowds that descend on cities, but the
streets were full of people either walking or on bikes (the stereotype that
bicycles outnumber cars in the Netherlands is no joke). There were street
marketers boisterously peddling their wares, which included cheap tulips by the
bushel, flea market-style merchandise, and of course a wide selection of wooden
clogs. There were patios full of people basking in the sun, eating and watching
the theatrical spectacle of the street life play out in front of them, street
musicians (some invariably stricken with droopy eyelids thanks to the city’s
thriving marijuana industry), and of course hordes of tourists. We wandered
this wonderful chaos for a while before deciding, as we LA students are wont to
do, to find a park and have a picnic. After acquiring some cheap wine,
Heineken, bread, cheese, and fruit we wandered into Vondelpark, which was just
as joyously alive as the streets around it, and sat under one of the many trees
tinged with the pure green glow of new leaves to have our lunch. I can’t say
how long we stayed there, catching up as each person shared stories from their
country, discussing the various cultural idiosyncrasies they had encountered,
and thinking about the final year of school that lies ominously before us.
Needless to say, when we finally got up to leave we were much louder, and much
less stable on our feet. We fit right in. That night we had a delicious Indian
feast before heading out for some evening wanderings through the sights,
sounds, and strangely potent smells of the city.
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| Amsterdam |
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| Some of the droopy-eyed musicians |
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| The flower/clog market |
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| Who needs subtlety? |
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| Vondelpark |
Our
lovely hosts, Kate and Zen provided out accommodation that night, and our
breakfast the next morning before we left for the day to walk along the Rhine.
The city life in Wageningen on Sunday was a marked contrast to the bustle and
life of Amsterdam. Most places were closed, and the city had a rather sleepy
feel when compared to its more raucous counterpart. It was a nice change of
pace and we spent a lazy afternoon on the banks of the Rhine where again we
indulged in a delicious smorgasbord picnic. The weather was also pristine, as
it would prove to be for the entire trip. That night we were treated to
authentic home-made pizzas at the residence and we ate until the sauce and
toppings were exhausted, chatting again late into the night.
The
third day we operated with more conviction, getting up much earlier, determined
to catch the morning train to Haarlem, near the coast. After crossing the
country in about an hour, we reached our destination and checked into the hostel
where we would spend the night. Perhaps the wisest move of the whole trip was
the choice to rent bikes from the hostel. We set out in our fleet of matching,
bright orange cruising bikes and made our way into the town centre to walk and
find somewhere for lunch. Biking in the Netherlands is amazingly easy. Drivers
are genuinely courteous to cyclists and quite ably share the road, often
yielding to the bikes. Even though it was an adjustment for me, coming from
Britain where the roads are backwards and nothing makes sense, I never felt
unsafe on the bike because the bike lanes are so well-defined and because cars
are so infrequent. When it comes to bicycle culture, Haarlem (and the
Netherlands in general) is a model of cooperation and coexistence, and it makes
Toronto’s befuddling and contentious political battles over bike lanes look
positively juvenile.
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| Haarlem |
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| Our sandwich place |
We ate
a fantastic lunch in Haarlem at a little sandwich shop tucked away in one of
the side alleys. These are always the places where you find the jewels of
cities. The chains and the big stores can afford the prime real estate on the
main streets, but from a character perspective are about as interesting or
stimulating as, well, a chain store. This place also featured two wonderfully
friendly waitresses (apparently a rarity in the Netherlands) who gave us all
sorts of ideas for the day. We settled on finding the ocean, since it was
another sunny day and we were equipped to travel a farther distance now that we
had our neon orange, two-wheeled transport machines. Our journey was slightly
longer than planned thanks to a small (large) detour, but it was a pleasant
addition to the ride and we carried on through the Zuid-Kennemerland National
Park, bound for the ocean. The National Park was an interesting place as we
left behind the green suburbs of Haarlem and were thrust into rolling sand
dunes, scrubby shrubs and windswept pine trees. I have never been to Africa,
but the landscape reminded me of some sort of savannah and I would not have
been surprised at all to see an elephant come lumbering over the dunes. But,
there were no elephants, and eventually the ocean overtook the dunes on the
horizon. The beach was fairly quiet as it was a Monday afternoon, and that
worked in our favour as there was no line for the trampolines. Yes, trampolines
on the beach. Even after our extended bike ride into the wind, our vigour was
renewed once we caught a glimpse of those enticing beacons of fun in the sand.
We paid the attendant 2.50, and it may have been the best 2.50 I have spent on
this trip. We bounced for a while, and left to look for a restaurant
jelly-legged and happy. Fortunately a seaside restaurant was open and we had a
nice, cheap dinner before sitting out on the beach as the afternoon waned.
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| Biking through Africa |
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| The sea |
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| Our fleet |
After
the night in the hostel, where again our chatting and carousing in the hostel
bar kept us up far past our bedtimes, we spent a lazy morning/afternoon the
next day back in Amsterdam, visiting the Van Gogh museum and taking a boat tour
through the canals as we awaited our respective flights back “home” (still a
wonderful thought). It was an altogether perfect adventure, with
great friends who travelled at the same pace,
with the same goals and wanted to see the same things. It’s hard to leave
people like that.
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| The crew |
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